Sometimes I miss Ghana so much I could cry...

I miss the heat and the music and the bright smiles and dark faces. The hustle and bustle of the marketplace and tailor made clothing. The rough tro-tro rides and the sweaty dance classes. Trips to rural villages and to new cities in foreign places. Inconveniences of water, power and internet outages and conveniences of hawkers along every roadway. HUGE lectures of eager students and taxi rides to class to avoid sweat. Laroba, the small girl that made my egg sandwiches every morning, and Jane, the good hearted seamstress with a small baby boy. Fresh fruits at every turn and haggling in broken Twi over cab fares. Entire conversations without exchanging a single word and greetings every morning from complete strangers. Hearing people shout obruni at every turn and yelling back obibini to their surprise. Both the dirty and beautiful beaches, and the hot, dry Northern region. Sometimes I would give anything to go back to this seemingly perfect life that I had in Ghana and sometimes I know that its mystery and excitement would pass...

Renewing Aspects of Myself in the US

Recently, I've been questioning where I belong and where I will be happiest in life. After graduation, I need to decide whether to go abroad and work in the developing world, to move within the United States, or to stay in the DC area. Each of these options has pros and cons but I don't think that any hold the key to my happiness and fulfillment. I'm realizing more and more how important it is to ensure that you are fulfilled where you are at each moment. It is important to bring along other experiences that have shaped you but it is unfair and unhealthy to spend your life wishing for the past or hoping for a vastly different future. Leaving the US to live permanently abroad is not the answer to my concerns, although it may be enticing and life abroad is definately a goal...

I have been volunteering recently at the Pregnancy Aid Center in College Park with recent immigrants to the United States. Most are Spanish speaking and I've felt a disconnect due to the language barrier that we face. I've mostly been in the back filing and pulling charts. Today, however, was the exception. A young pregnant girl of 15 came into the center, a political refugee from Togo. She spoke no English and I could finally put my French to use. I spoke with her and her father for the better part of an hour (in French!!) and talked to them about the US, West Africa, the coming baby, family, halloween and a whole array of issues. I was then able to go with her to translate with the social worker and ask about her questions and concerns for life and the birth. As she was leaving, they asked for my number for perhaps getting help for her with English as a tutor once she enrolls in school...and I offered to help her find the things that she will need for her little girl. This experience has already been so rewarding and was so refreshing to interact with people from Togo and knew of the places that I had visited there. And it was so nice to feel an importance at the center past filing and pulling files. I think it will be things like this that make me feel happy and useful wherever I am... Hopefully I will be able to assist this family and make my small change in the world. Onyame adom.

Race in America

America is a place where race is played up, above most other social or economic factors. For example, in Ghana, one of the biggest obstacles faced is that of religion. Dating or marriage between Muslims and Christians is perhaps the equivalent of interracial marriage in this country. There are hostilities and prejudices based on ethnic groups but in my experience, religion was played up to a much larger degree. In going to Ghana, I was struck by how hard it must be for someone to leave such a strong culture and living as part of the majority and join the racially charged society that is the United States. I find the race relations in America to be appalling and extremely disheartening. The past and present domination of minority groups by whites is inexcusable and steps must be made to rectify the situation. There is currently a place for Affirmative Action until the gap between the races can be lessened and people more readily view their neighbors as neighbors instead of seeing their color first. Race is only a social construction, with no biological basis, but it is still a very real phenomenon nonetheless. It is time to end the stereotypes and prejudices that it instills in this society, but how?

In an attempt to answer this question for myself, I decided to enroll in a course entitled "Race in America." I was hoping to be a part of a classroom of intellectual students that could share their own insights and experiences and listen to mine as well. Instead, this course has been one of the biggest disappointments of my college experience and I find myself leaving it enraged almost every day. Instead of trying to understand eachother and the history of race in the United States, students spend great amounts of time reiterating the past of white supremacy and domination of others. We do not look for solutions, only point fingers. There are no conservative or even moderate viewpoints represented in the class, partially for fear of being construed as a racist. In fact, even in considering the place of Affirmative Action policies in the U.S. without arguing strongly either way, I sparked a huge debate full of finger pointing and anger. One girl in class argued that every white person on campus has had an easier time getting to the same place at the University than she has, based solely on their skin color. While white people are not wrongfully profiled in the same way as other minorities, I believe that poverty and struggle come in all colors and that looking at the situation from this perspective will do little in the way of progess.

These radical critics of whiteness, in spewing hate towards white people in general are not working towards equality, but instead towards a more segmented and separate society. People in my class have no idea what it feels like to be part of the privileged white race, nor what it feels like to feel guilty every day not for my own sins but for those of my forefathers and for the color of my skin. They don't know what it is like to have to monitor every word that I say for fear of being misunderstood. At the same time, it is important for white people to understand that the issues of race and racism are not over and need to be addressed. I come to these classes trying to learn and understand and feel more and more hopeless at the end. It is important that we recognize the historical and current oppression of people of color by the white majority, but then move beyond that and take steps to change the status quo instead of teaching hate and not understanding eachother.

This focus on understanding has led me to travel to other regions of the world and try to understand other people and cultures. I think that only in reducing the differences between people through experience can we better integrate. This is why I was so hurt to find a blog by an African American friend and peer in Ghana that said that white people had come for the wrong reasons and did not get anything valuable from their experience there. It basically called the white students shallow and questioned our motives. I had no other motive than to understand and assist others.

In these experiences I am finding myself becoming more and more disillusioned about race relations in this country. I don't know if there is an answer really but all we can do is try and do what we believe is right.

Scary news

Just talked to my roommate from Ghana and heard some scary news about Accra. When she was coming back from Shiashie, she went to get onto the tro-tro and noticed her bag was missing. There had been a man standing in her way whom she suspected of stealing her purse. So she got off the tro-tro and began explaining her situation to others and they accused this man of cutting off her bag with a cutlass. So the crowd began to beat him and he ran across the street where she says that they lynched him. They returned her purse to her afterwards but I'd imagine the whole instance was pretty frightening. Street crime is on the rise in Accra, and she reports that two other men were lynched by a mob last week for stealing someones things while on a motorbike. I find the whole thing pretty scary and sad as well. In my course on African politics, we are learning about the systematic Western exploitation and domination of Africa and I am discouraged by the situation of poverty and helplessness that can be found there. Stories like this make me so confused about what can and should be done.

Mepe asa

I found this African dance class that is offered in Washington DC near Catholic University and I decided that I couldn't turn it down. Since I've come back from Ghana, I've felt this strange emptiness that I can't describe. A whole change in culture and loss of the things that have made me so happy. So I think that this class fills the chasm between my two worlds, or at least it did last night. The class had about 25 members and was taught by just this one woman. There were 2 drummers although they were struggling to keep up with us. One of 3 obrunis in class, I knew that I probably looked ridiculous but I danced like the crazy that I am nonetheless. The class focuses on dances from West Africa, particularly from Senegal and Mali so it is similar to what I learned but different in steps. Of course I missed the boys, especially since there were no men in the class at all. But overall, I felt a bit of the life that I had felt over there coming back. It is amazing how wonderful something as simple as dance can make you feel. I find myself listening to hip life constantly and feeling much better for it. I wonder how long I'll remain like this and if I will ever get used to life in America or if a return to Africa is inevitable. For now, African Dance is the perfect remedy. :)

Ghana in America

As school starts and I begin to get busier, I noticed the opportunity to see a Ghanaian dance company at my library in Frederick, MD. Unsure of exactly what it would entail, I decided to grab Joy and go check it out. The other African dance program that I had gone to see had been decent but nowhere near to the caliber of dancing of Africana, and I was questioning if this would be more of the same. To my surprise and delight, it was almost as I had remembered. There were definately differences: a crowd of all obrunis that couldn't clap on beat, only 8 members instead of near 40, variations in the dances, a guitar instead of solely drumming etc etc etc. But the important things were there: Dark faces and beautiful beaming smiles, high energy and vigor, fantastic music and beats, and colorful costumes. They opened with the Bawa, and I about died as I remembered each step and had to fight to stay in my seat and not go up there with them. I knew almost all of the dances and was able to talk to a few dancers at the break. I spoke small small Twi and informed them of my time in Ghana and my good friends there. Surprisingly, one dancer knew several of my friends, Junior, Solomon and Adams. After the break, there was more dancing and Issac came to the crowd and pulled me out among others to go up and dance. I couldnt have been happier to join in. The eye contact and the big grins warmed my heart and made me believe for just one more moment that I was back in Ghana. I took their contacts and that of their manager and I will soon start working to bring over the Africana Dance Company. What a wonderful taste of the culture and life that I love...and what perfect timing...

Unsure of everything

Since I have been back in the US, I have been trying to stay in good contact with the friends that I made and cherish in Ghana. From time to time I call them and I am in email correspondance with most. But things are proving trickier than when I was at school and seeing them every day. Everyone wants something...a visa to the United States, a place for me to sell their crafts, a laptop computer, a package full of American clothing... As much as I want to give of myself to these people that I love, I can't say that I can afford to do it. After sending a package for over fifty dollars in mailing, I am realizing how hard it is to send them things. It makes me wonder how these people view me and whether I am a friend, as I have always thought and hoped, or just another ticket to the states. But I realize too that I am blessed and there is nothing wrong with people striving to attain the luxuries that I have been handed... I just don't know how to proceed. My experiences in Ghana continue to teach me new things even after I have left. But one thing is for sure...Go Black Stars! Beat Brazil!

GHANA WINS

I watched the World Cup game between Ghana and the United States and I must admit that I was pulling for Ghana through the game. Not because I dislike the US or did not want to see them advance, but because of the impact that this would leave on Ghana and what it would mean to the people. For Ghana to advance meant national pride, national heroes and so much excitement. Already I have called a few friends who have described the events and happiness throughout Ghana. JoSHUA told me that people are parading through the streets of Sunyani wearing Ghana's colors and cheering, that they have taken much to drink and that people are not divided into ethnic groups but are all cheering and celebrating as Ghanaians. Perhaps it is something as simple as a sporting event that will further unify the country and allow for political advances... Junior depicted more mayhem in Accra but reiterated the jubilation throughout the city. I think that the beauty of the World Cup is that less developed countries have a real opportunity to shine. Soccer can be played with relatively little equipment and kids across the world have a chance to learn and excel. It feels good to be a part of this even though I am celebrating in a small way and very privately since everyone around me seems disappointed in the US loss... As Jo says, if only both teams could have advanced....

Culture Shock

From going shopping in a mall, to going to chain restaurants, to driving a car to being heckled about my African clothing, coming home has been more of a culture shock than going abroad. It is strange to be thrown back into my own culture, where material things are important, where people only dance when they drink, and where people rarely go outdoors. And it is even more strange to feel as though I don't so much belong in this culture that I have always grown up with. I have trouble relating to the excitement of Express' 50% off sale right now and find myself forgetting that prices are NOT negotiable. Losing touch with friends and changing relationships is a part of day to day life and I find myself dreaming of Ghana the way that I dreamt of home when I first went abroad. I know that things will return to normal soon, but I also hope that I never lose touch with the lessons that I have learned or the person that I have become.

Home Again

Coming home has given me such mixed feelings. I had a great trip home and was surprised and elated to see my sister with Cheryl and Colleen in the airport. They had signs with streamers and all and were quite a sight combined with me in the loudest outfit ever. From the airport, we definately stopped for ice cream and sprinkles even though I was already freezing in the weather. I had to get into the car to stop shivering. I am way too accustomed to Ghana's hot weather, as much as I don't like the heat. After ice cream, we went home and called some Ghanaian friends to say hello before going to get food. Haha not that I missed American food at ALL. Best meal of my life. When we got back home, Miller, Alina, V, Tosan and Desiree came by to say hi and it was so nice of them to drive up. Got a kick out of doing African dance and drumming for them and talking about the random noises that people in West Africa make. Made me really glad to be home and showed what great friends I have. Parents came back today and had a small reunion with them. Sometimes I am so glad to be home but sometimes I look outside my window and can't believe that I don't see the lights of Accra anymore. Or that I can't just phone my Ghanaian friends and go over to see them. And that African dance classes are no more and the dances are beginning to already fade from my mind. It is a bittersweet thing to be back in Fredneck but I am excited to see what this summer has in store. Maybe some trips to the beach and a 21st birthday :)

TOO MANY OBRUNIS

I am sitting in Heathrow airport, yes on the internet because I am addicted and because I have six hours to kill. A rain storm knocked out our internet access in ISH so I'm just recapping my last few days in Ghana. Saying goodbye is hard. First to my American and Canadian friends as they went back home and then to my Ghanaian friends. Taking people to the airport and last hugs goodbye got to be so emotional, as they marked the end of such a great chapter in our lives. Ghana has been different things for all of us. Some people came for the pot, others to travel throughout West Africa, and still others to meet and bond with Ghanaians on campus and integrate into the University. Whatever brought us to Ghana, I know that my closest friends have been touched by the experience. From counting down the days until we came back to the US to ultimately sobbing at the airport while saying goodbye. Alix you know what I'm talking about. :) My last few days have been great and more relaxed than most of my trip. I went to dance classes, spent time with the Africana boys and even fit in a trip to see the crazy coffins in Teshie in my last hours in the country. It is hard to come home but exciting to see everyone too. I just wish that I could bring my Ghanaian friends home...or better still bring my Americans to Ghana. Being back in the West is already a bit strange. Bathrooms have soap, TOILET PAPER, hot water (well running water for that matter) and hand dryers. Obrunis are the norm and I again am one of the majority although I stick out in my patch pants and jacket. I know that I will be coming back to Ghana within the year so see some really great people and that they will come to see me too. Who wants to come? It is the experience of a lifetime I promise. I will be home in like ten hours or something. Crazy.

On my way...

So far most of my closest obruni friends have already left for the airport and it is just me and a few friends in ISH. So quiet here without them. No one to go by and harrass and trips to 37 for dance all by myself. I've been keeping busy studying for exams and my last one is today at 3:30 PM. Then I should pack and get ready to go I guess... Man I don't even have the internet to distract me anymore. Stupid crazy rainstorms knocking shit down. Thing is I feel like without my friends I don' belong here anymore, but maybe not in the US either. I don't know if things will just pick back up from where I left them or if I will feel out of the loop on everything. And we all know what bad shape I am in for rugby... This trip has been wonderful, life changing, and I am already making plans to come back. I'm looking forward to getting home and its great to hear about all of the things that we're going to do in the upcoming summer. But I can't even picture how it is going to be to say goodbye to my Ghanaian friends here...especially Junior. The trip back is one of anxiety, sadness, happiness and excitement. Just like when I came. This experience has finally come full circle. See you kids soon...I'm coming 4:30 on May 21st!

Greene Turtle

This past week I peaced out of Accra and headed out West to the beaches near Takoradi. My friend, Sarah and I decided to take along three of the dance boys: Junior, Soloman and Adams. The trip was great overall and was especially hilarious since the place was full of obrunis. These people were not ready for the boys, who catch crabs with their bare hands and proceed to play with them, sing and dance around the pool table, share tea with complete strangers and mash kenke for breakfast with their bare hands. The place was nice and we hiked to this beach of shells along a coast of rocks. It was great for the boys who got tons of cowries to make their jewelry and crafts that they sell. The hike was gorgeous and there was a slight drizzle which didnt keep us from playing in the pools made by rocks in the ocean. The boys are still learning to swim so sometimes when the ocean is rough, it is scary for them to come in. They are strong guys though and fare well with standing in the sand while the waves crash over them. We all made a sand castle one day and it was really pretty good until Junior jumped onto it like the 7 year old he is. These guys just exude a youth and happiness that I haven't seen in grown men in a long, long time. It is so refreshing. To save money, we went to get food in a nearby village, about 20 minutes walk down the beach. The kids were really sweet and just wanted to hold our hands and play with our hair. Even the guys got a kick out of it and had them teach us local language and dances. We played football with some of the young boys there and had women pound us fufu for lunch and dinner. It was a nice mix of beach resort and African village life. We had such a nice time that we decided to stay for one extra day and then came back to Accra on Thursday. By the time I came back, some of my friends had left and more left the following day. The place is really clearing out quickly. There's a mass exodus on Monday and Tuesday but I still have a full week and 3 final exams to go...

Wake Keeping and Winneba Deer Festival

Last night, we went to my friend's Aunt's wake with the Africana Dance Company to perform for a few hours. It was in a residential area of town, one that I have not been to before, and our friends greeted us at a nearby restaurant and walked us over. When we got there, there were chairs and tents set up and Africana set up their drums and bench and got ready to perform. While waiting, I met this young girl, Christine, who is a member of the group. From the way she shook her ass I thought she was at least 20, but came to learn that she was only 16. She laughed jokingly at my attempts to move like her and helped me to do some of the dances. She's such a sweetheart and I am eager to get to know her and keep in touch when I leave. The program was amazing because the obrunis were integrated as part of the group and we got to perform some of the traditional dances with them. Sure we got a few laughs but it was all in good fun. The best part of African dance is the eye contact that you make with the people that you're dancing with. Everyone has the biggest smiles and they look right into your eyes while singing and clapping and moving with you. It is so much fun! After the program, we rode back to campus in the back of a pure water truck with a driver that was absolutely nuts. He kept taking the truck down small alleys and stopped for food and to fill huge water jugs for his family. I thought I was going to fall out of the truck just sitting on the ground. Some of the dancers were standing, holding onto the sides and shaking their asses. I don't know how they managed to hold on... Anyways went to bed at 2 am for a 4:30 wake up...

Today, we went to this Deer Festival in Winneba where the people are put into 2 teams and sent out into the bush to catch a deer with their bare hands. Once one of the teams captures the first deer, they bring it back and parade it about, bringing it to the chief and doing all kinds of traditional dance. Tomorrow they will sacrifice it and have some sort of feast. I figured I could skip that...The festival was really busy and very interesting to watch. My favorite part by far was the people returning from the bush. People were covered with branches and leaves for camo, but then there were 2 guys with computers on their heads and another with a Rolling Stones flag, and a few crossdressers. I'm not sure how all of this fit into the festival but it was entertaining nonetheless. But it is now time to catch up on some sleep and prepare for a few days on the beaches in the West... :)

Two exams tomorrow and I can't focus...

So I have two exams tomorrow...which is kind of a big deal since they constitute 100% of my grade. Can't seem to focus at all...thinking about who and what I am leaving here, how things will be when I get back, what I still want to do in Ghana, if Cheryl's flight is in safely and the fun we will have when we're back together, picking up with old friends, staying in touch or losing contact with new friends, getting my favorite dance troupe to come perform in the US, wondering if it will really be possible, how to pack up my things and if my drum will fit on the plane...etc etc etc. I think dance class will be a good solution to all of this anxiety and thinking and then hopefully I will be able to hit the books...

May Day!!

May Day is the best holiday yet. Not exactly sure what it is or why we had it but it was on May 1st and I think that it was something like labor day back at home. So a bunch of us went with the Africana Dance Company to Cocoa Beach for the day for dancing, swimming and food. Not a bad day at all :) The best part was definately wrestling some of the guys in the sand (I did win some believe it or not...and these are buff men...) I was the only obruni to step into the ring after a bunch of the dancers were taking eachother on. I think that I hurt some guys sense of masculinity but they should recover soon. Had to keep ready for rugby and beating people up. After the wrestling competition, we went to swim and then began dancing. People from all over the beach came to dance with Africana and we were just mixed in with the rest of the people. I was so glad that I had taken some dance classes so I wasn't totally lost. We danced for hours and ate some banku and stew before heading back to ISH. The rides home were absolutely hilarious. We took the bus with the dancers to 37 station and caught another tro-tro to Legon. The first car was filled with drumming and singing the whole way through slow traffic. There were a few too many people on it so it seemed like forever. But people were just singing and smiling like the big family that they are. All of it was in languages that I don't know but it moved me to dance in my seat nonetheless. The final tro-tro was the funniest part though. We got on and after small conversation in Twi a random drum in the back started playing and the strangers in the car started singing: "Everybody everybody. Bring your calabashes. Bring your calabashes..." We knew the song and dance and were able to join right in to everyone's amazement. Laughing the whole time... Plans for the weekend include a trip to Winneba for a Deer Festival and then off to the beaches in the West. Last big trip of the semester.

Also WELCOME HOME CHERYL
Also Also...Found Lamartu...a little too late

Random Thoughts, Riots, and Hot Dancers

Today we had oral presentations in class about what we have learned in Ghana and how life will be different when we go home. For the first time, I realized how quickly the semester is really ending and how hard it will be to go back, although at the same time, I am so excited to see everyone. Some things, like being able to dance everywhere at any time, I will miss so badly. The friendly faces and generosity, Fan Ice and marriage proposals will also be sorely missed. But I know that I just have to come back. Maybe this coming winter if possible... Sigh. I love Ghana too much.

In other news, we had riots on campus! University of Maryland style! Some guy was voted SGA president but then the school disqualified him because of past examination scandal. So the people from Commonwealth Hall started rioting and running around to the various halls breaking things. They came into the international student hostel...where we all know like zero about elections...and broke the glass, screaming and throwing flower pots. It was really exciting and confusing and strangely reminded me of home. Especially when the police came with pepper spray and all...just like the riots on route 1 really..

Have had some really intense rain storms recently and am keeping busy with dance classes at the cultural center and other random errands. The guys who teach dance are some of the most attractive men I have ever seen... Team 808, I will frame pictures... Seriously... Trying to tie up loose ends and study for finals and take some last minute trips before I go back to the US of A. So much to do...so little time.

TOGO AND BENIN AND #3 IN THE NATION

The Togo and Benin trip was so good...got to see great places with a really hilarious group of people. Went straight to Cotonou, Benin by car which is this fantastic place and the largest city in Benin. This guy, Rodrique, hooked us up with a cheap, decent hotel in town. The next day, we went about exploring and took motorcycles all around town. They are used instead of taxis and are much more fun. That is until you severely burn your leg on the exhaust. After this, it stays pretty well in your head to get off on the left. Went to the grand market where there was so much cloth it was ridiculous. Overall, I loved the city and the French influence in language and maybe food too (haha im such a prop). From there, went to Ouidah, the center of Voodoo culture in Benin. Didn't see much evidence of Voodoo, but did take the Route des Esclaves to the beach. Such a beautiful walk and beach and a monument to the people lost. From Ouidah we went to Lome which was quite a hit. Went to a fetish market where they had heads of all sorts of animals for magical purposes. Gorillas, horses, dogs, hippos, cats, birds, etc etc etc. I was a tool and bought a good luck charm and a stick for potency in bed for a gift back home...Apparently you will have the strength of a buffalo. Be excited. Went and took illegal pictures of the Presidential Palace and to the beach before going to Kpalime for the night. Found a fantastic hotel for like ten bucks for all four of us. Really heaven. Didn't see much of the place because we left early for a hike through the rainforest and this mountain of butterflies. The butterfly man was the cutest ever and showed us how he makes paints of natural materials and taught us about the flora and fauna. Highlight was seeing a green mambo snake...one of the deadliest snakes in the world...and right near my face. SO cool. Saw waterfalls and talked with some people in the nearby village before setting back to Kpalime and then to Accra. On the way back, found out that rugby made it to #3 in the country this weekend at Nationals. Such good news and the bitches even put me in the role call. Nice to feel included...love u guys. Good trip overall.

Leaving the Country

Oh yeah I'm leaving for Togo and Benin for a week or so.

Rough Day

Woke up this morning planning to go to drumming class and then to get my hair braided at a nearby shop. However, just after drumming, my arms, legs, and stomach began to itch like there were tiny bugs everywhere biting me. The pain spread onto my back and neck and I started buying bags of pure water and dousing myself with them. I began to panic and rushed back to the dorm where I took a cold shower and used some disinfectant from the cleaners to wash off (probably not my best idea but i was desparate). After a bit, I was able to relax and forget about it and even fell asleep until Audrey cleaned the windows and got dust all over my skin and bed. Finally I decided to just go to the hospital with Alix and have them look at my predicament. We waited for like 5 hours before being evaluated and I was told that it was an allergic reaction of some sort. They gave me medication for an injection and some pills to take. The injection was not my favorite thing ever. I think that I am way pampered at home. Here they just told me to drop trow (I had a really nice lacy thong in this old Ghanaian woman's face...nice...) and stuck me while standing up. I started to pass out and felt really shaky so they let me lie down for maybe 2 seconds and told me to go. If I still felt dizzy, I could find a chair somewhere...Haha I need to get over my babyishness and fear of needles. So much poorer, sorer and more tired, we returned home for pizza, which is about all I could deal with... Alix and I are getting to be such pros at dealing with sickness and laughing it off for the most part. But anyone who wants to fly here and give me a hug will be greatly appreciated...

Easter: Animal Sacrifice, Skinny Dipping, and Malaria

When I decided to go to a village for Easter weekend, I thought that it would be a really nice holiday to spend in a rural setting with families and all. The plan is a great one, except that the Ewe village that we went to was largely animist. Although I didn't get to celebrate Easter this year, the weekend was absolutely amazing. There were celebrations going on throughout the time that we were there for 2 funerals that were occurring during the weekend. Since it was my friend, Junior's village, we were not only invited, but integrated into the whole thing. We got to watch the whole ceremony, doing traditional African dance with the rest of the people. The ceremony was really a big event. People came by boat from all over the region to mourn and bury the dead. On the night before the funeral, people danced all the night and there was a spiritual service to honor the deceased and his spirit. The next day was full of dancing, and animist family members would go into the shrine and "get the spirit in them." The would come out and go all over the village pouring libations and speaking in strange languages. Furthermore, when the spirit was in them, they would inflict pain on themselves which apparently they could not feel. They stabbed at themselves with knives and beat their heads on stones with no response to pain. After a period of dancing, the body was brought out and then they went to the site of burial. Mourners and family members danced all around the body and a service was performed in which a priest prayed for the spirit of the dead. We were able to suit right in the front which was absolutely amazing except when the chicken was sacrificed. Its head was cut off and it continued to flap around bleeding just in front of my feet. I tried not to show my dismay, but I'd never seen anything like it and I think that I wore my sadness on my face. After this, the coffin was carried out and the mourners dispersed. On the way out, I was a little overwhelmed and ran into a sacrificed goat bleeding in front of the burial area. The whole ceremony was extremely interesting and something that I had never thought I would see in Ghana. The dancing made the whole thing seem less sad, although some of the dancers danced while crying. A friend of mine, an elderly woman named Comfort, told me that when I die, they will bury me there with a traditional funeral...yesss. Although mine might skip the sacrifice.
After the funeral we went back and had dinner before deciding to go to the Volta River to take our baths late at night. Sarah and I went with Junior and his friends to bathe and automatically thought that bath meant naked. So we show up in just towels at the river with shampoo and soap, but no one else apparently gets naked. We ultimately decided to go for it since it was so dark out and skinny dipped in the Volta... SO nice and refreshing...I think I will become a nudist. And luckily, the tons of children that followed us throughout the day had gone to sleep in time to miss the naked obrunis.
At night, we went back to sleep under our mosquito nets outside on straw mats. We had to share nets since we had many people and so few mats. It was hard to sleep with the heat from the nets and from the other person you were sharing with, but it was better than the bed bugs of before. I woke in the night to hear my friend being sick and spent the night playing doctor for my poor malaria patient. Morning couldn't come soon enough for us when we told some people about her sickness and the village tended to her. But before we took a tro tro out, I was able to go into the animist shrine, where foreigners are not allowed, as a friend of Junior's and experience their prayer for our studies, for the deceased, and for other occurrances in the village. It was all in Ewe, so afterwards Junior explained to us what had occurred and the significance of it. So I did go to church on Easter...kind of...
Went back to Legon totally exhausted and amazed at what I had seen and done Easter weekend. It makes me so sad that my plane ticket can not be changed and that I have to go in May and not stay for some of the summer... Found out on Friday that this is the case. So I will have to try to get the most that I can out of this small amount of time that I have here. And of course come back soon.

Shopping is so great when they make your clothes for you

So the past couple days I have been running around Accra shopping and it is so much fun! You just go into a market, make a million new friends, pick out some cloth and bargain for it and take it to a tailor to sew whatever you want. My new favorite thing in life. Haha all of my new clothes are going to be SO loud though...like all of these bright batiks and stuff. Good thing I don't care so much about American fashion... but seriously I am addicted. The other day I went on my friend's moped into town to shop for stuff and the tire blew while we were weaving through traffic on a busy road. Not such good timing... but we were able to pull over to the side and load it up in a little taxi and take it to a mechanic. So mechanics are not the same as home. There was this cute old man who ran around with the most adorable steps and assessed the tire damage. The only way that I could tell he was a mechanic was this HUGE stack of tires near where he was sitting and some pump looking thing. He couldn't fix it and needed a new tire so we had to go shopping for a new tire. We finally got all of this shopping done and came back to a fixed bike. Haha this is the most rambling thing I've written yet...

So Happy Easter early. I am going back to the Volta region village for nights of bed bugs and days of fun and swimming. So excited to go back...and I think that it will be really nice to spend Easter in some sort of family environment. No Easter Bunnies here though. Just Jesus.

Accra Adventures

Woke up this morning and felt not so great, so I decided to skip class...especially since I am not registered for it and just go for fun. As I was returning from buying massive amounts of water, I ran into a friend who suggested that we go to a local market. I decided to suck it up and go since I had not yet been and wanted to get some fabric and things to cook with...yes i am learning slowly... It was like the best morning yet. All of the people selling various things were calling out to the two obrunis and we were able to great them and make small discussions in twi. I guess that class did pay off some. Such a hustle and bustle out there with people selling raw meat, live crabs, fabric, tissues candy, toilet paper, tomatoes, dried fish...everything. AND i even figured out that they will smoke the goat meat at the market for me so that I can bring it to the states. I will do my best on this one... SO much to get home...a drum...a wooden stool...goat meat. The market just felt so good. It was so alive and vibrant and people were genuinely so nice to us. A woman, Abena, who sells pineapple at a stand near school was loading up fruit to take back and offered us a place in her cab to get back and even bought water for us sweaty obrunis from hawkers along the road...refusing to take any money for any of it. Ah such generosity. When I got back, I decided to go with Mel to the Nigerian Embassy to try to get a visa but by the time our cab found the spot, it was closed. But at least we know where it is and its hours and all. So much to do...changing plane tickets, buying plane tickets (which i think might go through Kenya...so maybe a trip there?!) and visas for Togo, Benin and Nigeria. We will have to try to get Cameroon's in Lagos I think. AH what a good day...and only on like 4 hours of sleep. Also...sorry for last nights harrassment and ridiculousness to anyone and everyone that I talked to. About that...

GHANA IS HOT

Global warming is all fun and games...until you live in Africa...

DARK AND LOVELY

This past weekend I went home with my roommate to stay with her family in Accra. Their house was BEAUTIFUL with satellite TV, hired help, and air conditioning (until it broke bc they arent as wimpy as me and never use it). I got to watch movies, an entire rugby match, eat with the family and wrestle some crazy children. All in all a very nice time.

The BEST part, however, was my decision to dye my hair, which clearly can only be done using Dark and Lovely hair dye. I went to this salon and they did it for me...laughing all the while at my obruni hair. When I was finished, they stuck rollers in my hair and put my under a dryer before adding massive amounts of some black hair product that made me look like the biggest greaseball ever...Cornrows and a weave to come maybe next week...I have to ease into this slowly...

PS I think my trip is going to flyyyyyyy

Excited and Anxious

So it's time to start thinking about this summer and next semester and making plans. I can't believe that I'm considering leaving Ghana so soon. I just got here in January! If all goes as I hope, I will be able to stay out here until mid June and then come back to a USAID internship. But I'm not sure if it will work out, or if I will have to come back in May, or even if I'll be offered something in West Africa for the whole summer. It's frustrating having no idea what is going on but the possibilities are all good in their own ways I guess. Just registered for classes for next semester with some much appreciated help. Apparently, it is fun to put a registration block on students across the world to give them a real head ache. Strange thinking about my rugby schedule as I am choosing classes but it's making me excited to get back for senior year. Classes only on Tuesday and Thursday as of now :) It's a weird feeling wanting to go home and to stay here forever all at once... I guess time will tell.

Going out tonight to a club with friends from the school's volleyball team and then probably going to my roommate's house in Accra for the weekend. I'm trying to fit so much into these last 6 weeks. Trips to villages in the Volta region, to Kumasi, to the beach and to a million places that I haven't been yet. Running out of time...

Happiness from Home

JUST got the best phone call ever. Vee called me from Richmond to tell me that the team beat Kutztown and is going to NATIONALS IN FLORIDA!! It is such great news and to make it even better, I got to talk to a bunch of people on the team...not exactly sure who due to a bad connection but I think I heard from Alina, Kara, Ashley and Christmas. SO good to get such good news and to hear from so many friends back home. Made my night. I am so impressed with the team. You've worked so hard and come so far to do this. Wish I was there to cheer you on while you show everyone who UMD rugby is. Believe me, I am decked out in Women's Rugby gear and bragging to strangers. I can't wait to get your pictures and updates. I am so obsessed with you guys...you have no idea.

Also, my little sister just left for CA for the weekend to check out USC one more time before deciding on a school. She is doing so well and I am the proud big sister. Looks like a road trip to Cali when I get back. Going out to celebrate tonight and maybe watch the Final Four at a local sports bar. So happy and homesick it is ridiculous. I love Ghana and I love home.

OOPS Classes are OVER

So I got back just in time to go to my last classes in Twi language and in Human Rights in Africa. Others are ending next week...looks like my little spring break jaunt went right through the WHOLE SEMESTER. If I had taken any longer I would have started missing final exams... Ohh man I have a lot of catching up to do...Looks like I am staying in Accra this weekend to chill and maybe going to the Aburi Botanical Gardens too. After that it is back on the road for 6 weekends (not straight through) and then maybe the big trip. Oh with finals somewhere in there too...

I LOVE MY RUGGERS

Congrats to my rugby girls on winning quarterfinals and making it to semis!! I am sooooo proud of you guys KILLING Richmond in last weekend's game. Makes me miss you sluts and your escapades sooo much. I will be thinking of you this weekend and I will be sweating lots over here instead...just for you. You are going to make it to Nationals...I know it! SO proud.

I'm back to Accra. Got in at 4 AM today and went straight to class. SUCH a nerd...I know. So I'm just going to chill and read a bit before going into town for dinner. Nice to be back and taking it easy and showering regularly again. I think I have the rest of my weekends all planned out til school ends which is amazing. This semester has flown by...

Trip Re-cap

So the trip has been really good. Definately had a ton of fun but also have been challenged like rarely before. So we left Accra and headed up to Ouagadougou with all of the fun transportation problems that I wrote about. Rested there for a few days and continued up to Mopti, Mali by bus. Mopti is this really nice West African city with the Niger river running right through it. We met this guy there who set us up to get transport to Timbucktu in the morning. The trek to Timbucktu is really intense...either you go by the Niger river which can take over a week (especially in the dry season) or you go by 12 hours in a 4WD vehicle. We chose this option. We drove up there, bumping and grinding all the way in the sand and on the way I even got a marriage proposal complete with an engagement necklace. These gents really know how to treat a lady. When we got to our hotel, we went out clubbing in Timbucktu (ONLY white people there) and then spent the next day touring the city and went on a camel ride into the Sahara Desert for the evening. The trip out was great...especially bright stars when there is NO nearby city to pollute the sky. Unfortunately, I got into a bad situation and ended up having some money stolen. Some things you have to learn the hard way I guess. From Timbucktu, our group split and my half went to Dogon Country, where you can hike through cliffs and rocks and explore villages there. Really amazing how people can live with such little access to the outside world...and mostly to water. The trip was nice, but intense and we got to sleep on rooftops every night. From Dogon, we hitch hiked with this random French group and got back to Ouahgouya, Burkina Faso with them. Got hit on a LOT but also got to sing at the top of my lungs while riding through a desert for FREE. Possibly worth it. Went back to our friends in Ouagadougou to recharge and then set off to see hippos. On the way, saw this horrible car accident. A truck carrying tomatoes overturned and killed one of the people in it. The body was lying out in the road, mostly covered by a thin sheet. We all got out of our bus to pay respects and it was really overwhelming and sombering. Made me think too about the shortness of life as well as the need to be as safe as possible over here. Went to see the hippos in Wa today and am getting on the safest transport possible back to Accra. The trip is about 20 hours so I'm glad we're playing it safe, even though it is expensive. Overall, I've had a good time and learned and experienced SO much. I'm ready to be back in Accra to chill and recharge but am planning a trip through Togo, Benin, Nigeria and Cameroon for May and June. BUT I will definately be back for my 21st bday and you are all coming to celebrate with me.

On my way home...

Back in Ouagadougou on the way back to Accra to start going to classes again. Overall, the trip has been great despite some minor setbacks like broken down buses, the car accident, having money stolen, and a few unwanted sexual advances. However, highlights included a camel trek into the Sahara Desert, sleeping every night on rooftops under the stars, speeding through Mali in a strange Frenchmans car listening to Coldplay, and hiking in Dogon Country where people live in and and around cliffs. On the way back to school, we are stopping at a Hippo Sactuary in Northern Ghana to see these animals in action (and take some notes for UMD rugby on how to hippopotomize). The loss of money leaves me a little short on funds for going to Niger but maybe once school gets out, I will take a trip...its in the works now. Just about 30 hours by bus and some hippos and I will be home safely (which is quite a feat the way that the trip has gone).

Transportation

We are now three days into our trip to Mali, and although we have not seen much in the way of famous sights, we have experienced some really amazing things. It seems like there is something exciting happening every day. We were unqble to get seats on the luxurious STC 24 hour bus to Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso, so we decided to use other means. We took a bus to Kumasi from Ghana and then got on another one to Bolgatanga in the north of Ghana. However, this bus broke down at about ten at night and the passengers all got out to stretch qnd relax as we waited for it to get fixed. We laid on the side of the road, with the bus behind us for protection. Soon, we started to drift to sleep and I awoke several times in the night to feelings that I was certainly going to be killed by the cars and buses speeding by. At 6 AM we were still lying on the road and went into a neqrby village where a very friendly group of people allowed us to shower and fed us boiled yams. We ultimately backtracked and took alternative transportation to the North of Ghana.

However, this night on the road was nothing compared to the leg from Paga to Ouaga. We hired a car which was rather slow and the driver had to keep stopping every 5 minutes or so to pour water onto the engine. We should have taken this as a sign. Instead, we continued on our way and were mid conversation when the car began to spin. We had no seatbelts and the doors didnt even open from the inside. The car spun and spun and I was sure that it was going to flip and that we were going to be seriously hurt on this very remote road. Luckily, the car stopped spinning and we were able to climb out as gas leaked from the tank. When we looked, the whole bottomof the car had fallen off including wheels and axle. No one was seriously hurt although it was scary to think of how it could have ended. We were qble to get into the back of a bus of people heqded to Ouaga and are now here staying with friends. Scary lesson in African transportation though... We have our visas and all for Mali and are headed there tomorrow if all goes as planned and there are no more transportation disasters. Should be beautiful. I wont have a lot of internet access out there so I will report later. Everyone take care and be safe. I am going to travel smarter from here on out...

MALI EXCURSION

Tomorrow at 730 AM, I am leaving for a 2 week trip through Ghana and Burkina Faso into Mali. Our ultimate destination is Timbucktu but there is little planning done so we will see if we make it. No transportation figured out, no hotels booked, no nothing. I never was so good at planning. Ideally, we will bus up to Mopti and then take a boat on the Niger river to Timbucktu where we can ride camels in the Sahara Desert. Hopefully, this will all work out and I won't end up living on the side of the road somewhere in Ghana. Interesting points about this trip besides the zero planning: 1- It is 114 degrees Fahrenheit right now in Mali. 2- I can only bring one small LL Bean backpack with like 2 changes of clothes. 3- I probably can't shower so much... 4- I am missing a lot of class. I have no cell phone service and most likely no internet either. So I will be back in like 2 weeks... Unless I decide to stay forever...

March 6th is the New July 4th

March 6th, besides being the day of Miller's birth, is also the independence day of Ghana. This year marked 49 years free from British colonial rule. So interesting and different to be celebrating independence of a country that occurred within my parents lifetime. In the morning,we got ready at 6:30 to go to this volleyball tournament, but we were the only people not on Ghanaian time. People started filtering in about an hour later and the bus left at like 9. As we were waiting, this building had a peculiar amount of water pouring out of it. My friend, Felix, this hilarious volleyball player started yelling "Wake up wake up. Your house is on water!" Then Joe chimed in about "No no, this is Legon waterfalls. Get your cameras ready." Just an example of how fun these guys are. Once we got to the court, we took a cab to independence square to see the celebration and hear the President speak. Ghanaians my age had told me to avoid this situation since it was boring, hot and crowded. Instead, they told me to go to the beach. However, I wanted to see the official celebration and we went into the thick of it. The entire stadium was full of people carrying the Ghanaian flag and proudly displaying their country's colors. On the floor was a whole formation of military officials as well as tanks and fancy cars. Up on this balcony type thing, President Kufuor delivered a speech on Ghana and independence although the hum of the crowd made it dificult to hear. A band played some songs, including the national anthem, and soldiers marched with the flag held high. We had come rather late, so it was soon over and we went back for the tournament. In addition to volleyball, there were men's and women's teams from four schools in football and basketball as well. The three of us were the only obrunis there and we had a wonderful day with the volleyball teams. Our university won both the men's and women's tournaments and I have many new friends and protectors. A little sunburn and some hunger at the end of the day were well worth it. I definately crashed at like 9 PM when we got back. Forget July 4th. I am celebrating March 6th from now on.

Weekend in Accra

This weekend, I decided to stay in Accra and do some exploring and studying for a change of pace. We may be planning a 2 week trip to Mali starting on Friday, so I wanted to catch up on work and be well rested for the excursion. I have a book to read, an exam, and a report to write before we go. Oops. So on Saturday, we went to lunch in Osu and checked out this salad place. SO good... AND I was lucky enough to run into my leg slapping husband while I was down there (which is good for wedding planning purposes). Then we went to the International Trade fair which is like this huge swap meet of artisans and vendors. It was like mayhem with everyone trying to sell their things. I was however able to find "Mandingo Bitters" which should be really fun to try. I will smuggle as much home as possible. I bought a few other things like necklaces, cloth, etc. You know, the usual. The rest of the weekend I pretty much chilled and did some studying. Went to a few bars and had a pretty good time. Champs was this bar with like all obrunis but there was a live band so it was pretty good. Tomorrow is Ghana's independence day so I think I am going to hear the President speak although apparently it is nothing like July 4. I will probably just end up on a beach somewhere. Sigh...what a rough life. Miller, little did you know you share your birthday with GHANA. Also made a big decision to apply to stay in West Africa for the summer for a USAID internship in West Africa. I think I'd rather come back and work in DC and catch up with everyone but the experience would be great. We will see what happens but as of now I'm coming back on May 20th. I do need to get back to see my baby sister off to college for sure. She got into the University of Southern California and I'm sooo proud. BB wish I was home to celebrate with you. She offers us all a place to crash for Spring Break if she goes. Not really but maybe. Have to be up early for the celebration tomorrow so I'm heading to bed.

Power Outages and Baby Having

Classes are a bit different here than in the United States. For example, the other day I was sitting in my culture and development class and we were taking notes when the power just goes out. This might not have been a problem except for the fact that it is a night class. So we sat around in the dark waiting for power to return. Meanwhile, the lecturer is walking all around and we are not sure if he is leaving and if we can go too. Finally he announces that we will wait just 30 minutes (classes are only 2 hours!) to see if power comes back. So we are just waiting in total darkness and it gets to about 20 minutes and the lights come on and we continue with class. Wow the things you dont think about back home. Also, I am in this Culture and Reproductive Health class and we were having a discussion about marriage and children and this girl in class turns and asks if I am married. As I reply NO WAY, I notice that she has a ring on her finger as does the other guy that I'm sitting with. Whoa people get married young. Salima also has a 2 and a half year old daughter who lives several hours away in the North of Ghana with her husband. They ask me all of these questions about when I am going to get married and how many kids I want and all of these things...and I'm like wow...umm im years away from thinking about marriage at all...and i dont even know if i will get married or want kids... which is like a totally foreign idea here. Funny to think how our lives are so different and we are both sitting in class, learning about pronatalism in African culture. I feel so young and carefree compared to my peers...

"Hey, I Like Your Legs. I Love You. What's Your Name?"

I had perhaps the most hilarious pick up attempt this morning while walking around in Osu. We stopped to look at some random necklaces and one of the men working went to greet me. As he shook my hand, he was sure to give me the old rub and to hold onto it just long enough to make me uncomfortable. Very nice. He then asked my name and proceeded to forget it immediately. Next, cassanova decided to slap my calves and comment on his views on my legs. I really enjoy being a piece of meat. I think all girls do. I told him not to touch me...thanks...and that I am not ok with such advances. I think he thought I was playing hard to get, because he decided to declare his undying love for me right then and there and slap my leg again. I yelled at him again and asked if he even remembered my name..which he didn't. So I guess he just loves some random obruni with "strong legs." Very smooth. We are getting married next week. You're all invited.

"You Coming Black Small Small"

Ahh i feel like the last entry was really heavy so I just wanted to share the happiness that the above comment with regard to my ethnicity brought me from a young kid on the beach. Also included in this weekend's good times was a dancing rasta in a dress, a game of eenie meenie miney mo for my hotel manager to decide who to propose to, presents of dead fish from my new fishermen friends, and jumping in the waves with naked African children after burying them in the sand.

Heart over Head

In everything that I have read and learned, I have been told not to give money to begging children. Over here, often young kids are exploited by their parents or families and do not see the money that you give them. Also, there are thousands of kids here that need help, and even the "rich white obruni" doesn't have the money to help everyone and stay in college. However, knowing this information in your head does not ease the pain or guilt when you look into the face of a hungry child and say that you can not help them. So far, I have been able to offer them random pieces of fruit that I have with me to avoid simply giving money. But sometimes I am not stocked and have to make the decision of head or heart. This weekend, I went to Kokrobite, this beach area about 45 minutes out of Accra. The beach is an interesting mix of local fishermen and tourists alike and one can sit on the beach and watch the men pull in the fishing nets at the same time as people lie on the beach sipping their pina coladas... So Friday when we got in, there was a show of traditional African dance, and the tourists and locals alike got together to enjoy. Soon, a small girl came between my friend, Carolynn and I and held our hands. She smiled warmly and finally fell asleep in my lap. She woke up, and instead of asking for money, looked at me and softly spoke the word "bread." Having no food to give her, I decided to this once, give her the equivalent of US$2. She promptly jumped up and ran with it to her mom across the way. For the rest of the weekend, I saw this new friend going around with white folk asking for money. It is so hard to know what to do here about poverty or how to help...and I don't think it is ever going to get easier for me to deny food to hungry kids... even when I know theyre going to dupe me.

African Dance and Drumming

In an attempt to become an African, I started taking traditional dancing and drumming classes this week and I have loved them. On Monday I went to the Cultural Center in Accra where a group of professional dancers holds classes in traditional dance. It was hilarious when my group of friends tried to do the moves, but I had a really good time and got to shake it fast. In fact, I am convinced that I got my moves in the club from this kind of dancing. Miller knows exactly what I am talking about. I am definately bringing these dances back to the states and everyone had better be ready to see me bust them out in Cornerstone. Should be entertainment for all. I also sat in on a drumming class which I really enjoyed. It was held under this big tree and we all sat around and drummed...really nice and also relaxing. I am having a drum made so hopefully I will be able to practice and remember more of what I learned. Ahh these classes are so great. Agenda for the weekend still undecided. Perhaps a beach called Kokrobite or home with my roommate. We will see...

More kids than you can shake a stick at

So this post might seem a little hokey because I really doubt that I will be able to explain how fantastic my weekend was, but I will try. I went with a group of about 30 obrunis to the village of a friend in Ada in the Volta region of Ghana. We left on Friday at one via tro- tro (these large vans that people use for mass carpooling for a small fare) and it took several hours to get there, especially due to transportation problems. Turns out that it is hard to fit 30 adults into a van made for about 15. We arrived at the village and were greated by a barrage of children and met the chief and the elders. After meeting them, we went to the river and some people swam before we ate dinner and did traditional African dance to drumming before bed. Turns out sleeping arrangements were not the highlight of the weekend. The villagers were very generous and provided us with mattresses and mosquito nets which was fantastic except for the fact that the mattresses had bed bugs and the nets had holes. Needless to say, I got very little sleep as I was eaten alive. However, the next day more than made up for it. I got up early to swim (crucial since I would NOT be showering all weekend) and then enjoyed a breakfast prepared by Junior's grandmother. After breakfast, we distributed gifts to the villagers and especially to the children. They were especially appreciative of pens and paper and cookies. There were so many of them and they were all eager to not be left out so it got a little hectic. One woman grabbed a large stick to regulate the whole crowd. She was not messing around and the kids calmed down a bit. As we were preparing to go to the estuary for the day, we noticed the roof of a house on fire. Immediately, we grabbed containers and ran to the river to fill them. I got a large metal tub and filled it, putting it on my head to carry it to the site of the blaze. I lost a good bit of the water and got several laughs, but then turned to fill another bucket. With the help of the entire village, they were able to extinguish the fire and save the home. We were told that the community would work together to re-roof the home in the coming days. Finally, we went to the estuary and got there via long wooden boats which we paddled. I really felt like I was living in a National Geographic. We spent a long time swimming and playing in the large current and got back for lunch. In between meals, I started playing with the children, teaching them games like Red Rover, hand claps and the Hokie Pokey, but their favorite by FAR was Duck Duck Goose. It became quite a spectacle for young and old alike. I was really taken aback when a villager offered to give me a child to take back to the US. He approached me to ask if I could take her or if there was a place for her with my parents. She was gorgeous and happy and the whole situation was sad and confusing. I explained that I couldn't and went to have dinner. After eating, the dancers did a routine for the community which went into the night. The kids especially loved it and howled with laughter as the dancers joked with them. I completely fell in love with a little boy who fell asleep in my lap. I sat with him and watched members of the community and obrunis alike come together and dance and just felt completely content. After another sleepless night, we went to the sea for the day and said our goodbyes. Never realized how attached you could become just in a day or two. This account falls so short of explaining my weekend, but hopefully it captures some part of one of the best experiences of my life.

Marriage Proposals, Sweat, and Elephants!

For the past five days I have been driving around with the group in the Northern regions of Ghana. First we went up to Kumasi and then continued to more rural agricultural areas and ended in Mole National Park...where one can see the wildlife in Ghana through a guided walk through the Park. All in all it was a fantastic trip but I'm going to just list the top ten highlights.

10- "Sweat Sweat Why?"
I think that people not accustomed to living on the equator are probably more likely to sweat a lot. And well of those people I may or may not sweat more than most. So we went to this ridiculously big market in Kumasi which is said to be the biggest in West Africa. And we went in the middle of the day...so you can only imagine. The "sweat sweat why?" comment was made by a man utterly perplexed by my condition.

9- Dana Loll, Crocodile Hunter
We went to this crocodile farm and in addition to feeding the croc a live chicken, we were allowed to hold it by its tail. Scary, scary situation..especially when other crocodiles started crawling towards us and surrounding us. At least it makes for a good facebook picture right? Haha I'm such an addict.

8- Grilled Lamp
Also not so funny but I liked this. We went to this fantastic hotel with hot water, TV and airconditioning. Might not seem that great to you all but trust me...it was heaven. I pretty much took the hottest shower possible and then laid in my bed with the AC all the way up...all huddled in blankets. So nice to feel cold once in a while. And I saw about your snow at home. SO jealous. But my favorite part was the menu, which featured "grilled lamp." I think I was delirious that I laughed so much at such a dumb thing. But I did see this after eating a "harm burger" for lunch earlier in the day...

7- Locked in a Bathroom
So at this nice hotel in Kumasi I went to take a shower at like ten thirty at night and went to come out, only to discover that I was locked inside the bathroom. I fiddled with it for like 5 minutes until my roommate woke up to help. She couldn't get it either and went to get the man working at the front desk as I prepared to sleep in the tub. Alix had to wake him up and he came in to let me out. Eventually I got out, but he seemed a bit surprised and embarrassed when he flung open the door to find me in a towel.

6- HOT Adinkra Man
We went to this place where they stamp symbols onto cloths and it was cool because we got to see how they got the ink and made the stamps and stamped our own. BUT there was this guy that was showing us who was pretty hot and apparently I really liked him because a friend asked me to take a picture of her. Not realizing that the camera was in video mode, I tried to take a picture of her but instead got a video of this guy as the camera wandered...hehe oops.

5- Wedgies in a Waterfall
We went to this waterfall where you could go and play. I climbed the rocks and slid down them to the pools below. It was really like a waterslide. Complete with the wedgies at the end. Really nice, especially for the men waiting for us at the bottom. The waterfall was so surreal though. The wedgies were definately worth it.

4- Beware of the Baboons
Baboons dont mess around. Instead they steal your things. We went in this Nature Reserve up North called Mole National Park and expected to see all kinds of wildlife in a natural setting. Instead, we witnessed baboons climbing into people's cars and running away with their things. We even saw one break into someone's hotel room and run off with stuff and another get a pineapple from a car. After which all of the local kids chase the baboon and try to recover the loot.

3- ELEPHANTS
We saw ELEVEN wild African elephants swimming in a pool bathing and drinking. It was absolutely amazing. Reminded me of Disney world on the safari ride...except these elephants were not mechanical. And even got to see two elephants copulating in the pool. Get em.

2- Broken Air Conditioning
So we took this van to the North and probably spent at least 20 hours in te car. I am not joking. But then the roads were so bad that about halfway through, the AC broke. This wouldnt have been such a big deal except that there werent windows that could open in the back and the average temperature has got to be 90 degrees here. So I was thinking about people and dogs dying in hot cars...and that was pretty much how it felt. At one point I just tried to go to sleep to forget about my approaching death.

1- Marriage Proposals
In bargaining for kente cloth in an hour and a half (this very intricate and ornate cloth weaved by the Asante people) I was offered marriage by three gentlemen. One man used it as leverage in a negotiation, offering me a large piece for free if I just married him. Another talked with me of the US and then asked if I could marry him and take him there. And a final man remarked to my Ghanaian coordinator that he would like to marry me. She immediately started laughing and told me of his plans. Other requests included a desire for me to remove and donate my Terps Rugby shirt and for me to pawn and trade my things. All in all I counted 7 proposals in my 5 day trip.

The trip was absolutely fantastic but had the good as well as the bad. On a serious note, the children that I saw in the North were absolutely wonderful and touching despite the poverty that many live in. The north of Ghana is a poorer area than the cities in the South and many dont have access to schooling and other resources. It was here on my trip that I first saw the malnutrition that I had read about. Really tough to see. And yet, the kids were happy to see us and just talk to us and really taught me a lot about how fortunate I am and that happiness comes from within and not so much circumstances.

So finally, I feel caught up and am trying to relax after such a busy trip til the weekend when I travel again.

I heart Tuesdays

So I have rearranged my schedule so that I can have Mondays and Tuesdays free of classes to enable me to travel about on long weekends if I decide to. So yesterday I sat around for a good while before deciding to hit the beach and go to dinner. Today, I was ready early with a plan. Since I am one of few people with such a sweet schedule, I woke up before 7 to run (yes 6 AM is the only time that it is both cool and safe enough to run around) and then did another bucket shower (I am becoming a pro) before going to a nearby pool. Stayed there pretty much from 10AM until 5 PM. I think in those hours I managed to change ethnicities. Just kidding but I did get a little burnt. It would be a good thing to wear sunblock when living on the equator huh? I went back home before going to dinner at Redd Lobster ( yes, with two D's) in Madina with a friend. And that ladies and gentlemen was my day. Not so shabby. I do plan to do more traveling in Accra and Legon and exploring the tro-tro system ( they are like conversion vans but carry like 22 adults crammed together for cheap fares) but today I just needed a pool and a book. Tomorrow involves class and dropping classes and then it is off to Kumasi and Mole Nature Preserve. I promise pictures of this and Cape Coast. Good times in Ghana.

Bob Marley's 61st and Other Ridiculousness

So last night was not only the superbowl, but more importantly here in Ghana was Bob Marley's birthday celebration. There was a huge concert at the International Trade Fair grounds with more local reggae artists as well as Damien and Ziggy Marley. We got there around 7 for the opening acts and the whole thing went until like 3AM...although I left at 2. It had to be the happiest concert that I have ever been to. Everyone was dancing and there was a huge cloud of smoke hovering above the crowd. It was actually ridiculously fun...between my crazy attempts to dance and the random strangers offering me pot. What was not so fun however was the crowd of pickpockets waiting outside. Some other international students were robbed so we had a group of police escort us to the taxis. I know we are nerds but I'm not such a fan of being robbed. But I think I'm going to come back with a huge love for reggae. Like today we took a cab and the driver totally lit up and started singing when a friend put Bob Marley on his ipod and played it. Singalongs in cabs are way fun. Also catch up from Friday...I thought i was going to a drumming lesson but instead ended up in a village where I picked out wood and carvings for a drum that I'm going to have made. I am so excited. After this week's classes we are heading up through the Kumasi area to Mole National Park where apparently I will see elephants and all kinds of wildlife. This should be cool and I'll update later :)

Laundry Fun

Laundry is hard to do by hand. I tried this the other day and have decided that I am now going to wear my clothes until they are covered in filth. I got my laundry together to do it by hand and before I even finished, my hands were bleeding. I had to stop early and the ladies that you can pay to do it for you basically laughed at me and told me to just have them do it. But I am determined to try it myself and perfect my skills. After all, I am going to need them in my future marriage. Also, went to an orphanage the other day and the kids are just so beautiful. I can't even explain... They are also like the happiest kids I've seen and yelled the equivalent of "white person!" as we drove by...gotta run to class...more updates later :)

Cape Coast

This weekend was incredible. We went to two castles, the Cape Coast castle used by the British and the Elmina castle of the Portuguese. The irony of their beauty and horror was astounding. Some of the most beautiful places that I have ever been which created such suffering for so many people. I'll post pictures on facebook bc this blog thing is way too advanced for me. We then stayed in the Crocodile Botel (still not sure how a botel differs from a hotel or motel) which had real crocs under the restaurant/bar. Not such a great idea to have drunken people over a pond of man eating reptiles in my opinion... We had sweet palm wine and played drinking games as a group. Had to get up really early to go to the rainforest where we did a canopy walk through the trees. It was sooo high up and basically had just ropes to hold onto. For the rest of the day we went to the beach and collected shells before going back to the university etc for dinner. Not too shabby of a weekend. 730 class tomorrow though. Gross.

No water, No fun

Just hit a week here and things are going smoothly for the most part. My Ghanaian roommate, Audrey, is awesome and is really helping me adjust to Ghana. There are some unforseen things that are causing problems for me...namely the loss of water in my dorm. It went out for two days which for a person who doesnt shower three times a day is not a big deal. However for me, it was nearly a catastrophe. My thrice daily shower routine was inhibited and toilets and sinks were not working. I turned, confused to Audrey, and asked what we were to do. After laughing for a second, she told me to just go fetch a bucket of water and shower with that. An interesting experience for me...you really have to ration the water so you dont run out and have to run out of the shower naked and soapy to get more. So that put a cramp in my shower style. Luckily water is back on and life as I know it can proceed. No longer will I be that strange smelly white girl. Classes are interesting and some number almost a thousand students. Pretty intense. But at least I think I am going to have 4 day weekends! This weekend we are going to the castles in Cape Coast where slaves were kept before being sent to various imperial assholes. Dont know what to expect...should be intense. Thanks for the love letters and keep em coming. Off to the beach!

JUST KIDDING

So i have been explaining to everyone how it is not as hot here as I had anticipated. Recent days have shown that this is not true in the least. It is probably a million degrees. I go to internet cafes just to sit in air conditioning and cry regularly while walking to class. At least sweating is an efficient cooling mechanism...

In Ghana!

I've been in Ghana for about three days now...and have been kept busy from about 8AM to 8PM every day. The first day we went around the campus a bit and were introduced to various people in our program. There are nine girls in my group and we are staying in the International Student Hostel. The University of Ghana is in Legon, which is a few kilometers from Accra, the country's capital. So we need to taxi into town in order to get things and go out. Kind of similar the the University of Maryland/DC situation except minus the metro. It is nice here..i feel like I am always just about to sweat, but not quite. It is not as hot as I expected and I've actually come across a bit of AC which is exciting. I got a cell phone but I dont think that Skype is going to work. I cant hook up my computer to the internet on campus or apparently in the city either. Interesting. The second day we went into Accra and saw many of the neighborhoods there. It is really shocking for me to see the HUGE divide in wealth. Houses as big as I have ever seen and poverty worse than I have imagined. It is exactly what I was looking for, completely different than home. Children especially like looking at our American parade when we go about and smile and wave. They are beautiful. Alina needs some. Next we went to the beach and I had my first attempt at marriage but I think I will hold out a little longer. Waters are really nice and the beach is littered with acrobats, dancers and men on horses trying to make some money. One act had a small child of about 4 who could shake his booty better than I could...and better than most people I know. Ridiculous. Went out dancing at a bar...Chez Afrique. Perhaps the happiest bar I have been to. People of all ages dancing everywhere. Today we toured campus for a few years and went to dinner. Registering for classes tomorrow and probably getting lost in the process. Missing home a lot but I think I'm going to love it here as long as I dont get malaria, cholera, or typhoid. The program directors tell us about tropical diseases every day at length. I think they want us to stay in our rooms and not leave. Write me emails!! And send your addresses for postcards because chances are I lost them :(

Leaving on a Jet Plane

So I leave today at 9 and I couldnt have more mixed feelings about it. Excitement, fear, anxiety and doubt all mixed into one. But mostly I am hoping that there aren't sketchy men stalking me at the airport. I got onto Skype which lets you talk across the world through your computer for free! Go and download it and talk to me. So now you can call me at 301-637-7411 and talk to me for the price of a local call. So excited! But anyways, you make a profile for this and before I knew it, random people in Ghana were messaging me. My favorite is a 29 year old man whose opening line was "I like black women that know what they want." I have a feeling that an indecisive white girl is not going to be what he was looking for. But anyways, being completely idiotic, I gave them all kinds of information. So now I am just hoping that they are not waiting at the airport for me. Good thing Steel Steph gave me that knife. So I think I am all packed and ready...and my last day will probably include some Dr. Phil and Oprah and trying to forget what I am leaving behind as I embark on this adventure. Talk to you all from Ghana. Miss you already.

Trying out this Blogging Business

I'm thinking that an easy way for everyone to stay on top of my adventures is to make a blog. Not a livejournal like Megan's that people can stalk and read and laugh at for hours, but a brief synopsis of my experiences. So yeah, I'm gonna try it. I don't know how fancy it will be or if I will be cool enough to upload pictures on it. But I will try, so be patient with me. Just got my plane ticket today. Made me feel a lot better about the whole thing since it is more definite and less in the air. I really need to learn to be a better planner and stop saving things til the last minute. Anyways I am leaving BWI at about 9 on the 19th...So youd better come say goodbye before then :)